Wednesday27thJune07

Today I met up with some of my Korean friends. It was a nice way to bookend my time here given that they were the first people i met.

It was a weird day. People kept saying goodbye to me, and i found myself giving the appropriate reaction ('oh... i know... I'm so sad to leave...') when actually it hadn't remotely clicked. (I'm trying to hold it back till I'm safely in the air and can't chain myself to any buildings.)

I eventually came to the conclusion that the fact I hadn't packed yet wasn't a good thing. I realised that since I have an exam and a flight tomorrow that this was really my only chance.

Almost as soon as I had finished a girl from up the hall came by with a freshly made mango desert thing for me.

From then on the day has been filled with people knocking on my door to find out flight times or say goodbye. I'm finding it all a bit bizarre, but there's a looming feeling of dread in the back of my mind that they might be doing this because I'm actually leaving. There's a distinct possibility.

nine people

Today I went on a small trip with some friends. One of them did an exchange at Gray's (the art school I go to in Scotland) last semester (although I never knew her then) and the other is going to Scotland for a year to study there. Ironically her flight leaves two hours after mine on Thursday.

We went to a place called Jioufen, which is a pretty funky wee town situated on the side of a mountain, in the middle of lots of mountains, overlooking the sea. A lot of it was built by the Japanese when they occupied Taiwan so it was a fascinating mix of the two cultures.

The town itself has lots of stairs and intriguing little shops, but if you take a short bus trip a little further up the mountain you come to an old gold ecological park with beautiful scenery and a few museum type places.

We had just gotten near the end of the walkway (next to Teapot Mountain which looks like it has a teapot on top) when it started to rain. We took shelter in a Japanese restaurant (with great food) just in time for the rain to really let go. When it rains here, it really rains. Although fortunately it doesn't lie for long since it's so ridiculously hot.

Right now I'm stuck inside waiting for a rather large thunder and lightning storm to pass so I can go out. But I must admit, there's something fascinating about watching lightning streaking across the sky and spiking out every-so-often. It makes you glad to be inside.

Monday25thJune07

I spent this morning in the top floor of a coffee shop, chilling out and watching the world pass by.

This place has served me well over the last few months, granting me refuge whenever I want it. A place to be unseen. Unfortunately it's a little far from the dorms, but it was always worth the trip.

The view isn't anything special, it overlooks a junction in a side street in Taipei, but it brings with it a constant stream of people going about their lives. I always wonder what they're thinking, where they're going, where they've been, and what life has in store for them next.

Today I was mostly just in wonder at the innocences of this place. It comes with all the usual perks of a big city, in that you need to be careful about leaving things lying around and there are lots more people to get lost in amongst, but this place is different.

As I was sitting wondering a young guy came and marked his territory on the table next to mine, leaving his bag there and disappearing back downstairs to get his coffee. Granted we were the only two people on the top floor, but where on earth would you do that? Maybe it was just naivety on his part, but it's not that first time I've seen this happen.

I wondered if it's maybe due to the lack of foreigners and tourists here, the people have remained relatively untainted. I'm not sure, but at the least it made me laugh. Maybe I just don't look like the sort of person who would steal a bag.

Sunday24thJune07

Why is it that when things get hard, that's only thing we seem to know how to do well? It would be so much easier if we had reboot button so when we crash we could just breathe and start again.

When everything is hectic it's hard to get perspective. This is especially the case in a city where there is never any quiet, and there are always people. A friend of mine is having a pretty tough time at the moment and so I passed on my preferred 'find a mountain or some coastline' method which comes in especially handy when you just can't stop thinking. (Helps you to realise how huge and amazing the world is and that it doesn't revolve around you.) It helps sometimes to take a step back from things for a while. As much as I know my friend is going to get through it and totally has the strength to, when it's you in the middle of it all, it's hard to think objectively.

But I think, at the end of the day, the noise and craziness isn't going to go away, so you have to learn to find quietness in yourself sometimes. Learn to shut out harmful noise and clutter without escaping from it.

Although I still think it's good (if possible) to find somewhere like that, where you can just go to be alone.

Bodies of water are not always the best place to find peace and relaxation, however.

Today I got a little over excited about a potential photo opportunity, misread the terrain next to a river (thinking the concrete continued at a steady level with only a little mud on top), slipped (after being duly warned by my friend) and ended up ankle deep with my hand and shoe stuck in some rather grimy gloopy mud (all the while with my one free hand trying to keep my skirt and camera safe.)

Fortunately I don't embarrass that easily and just found the whole thing quite funny (if not a little stupid.)

Saturday23rdJune07

Today I went to the jade market with a friend. He'd never been before so it came as a bit of a surprise to him. The masses of tables, curios, jewellery, ceramics, beads and gemstones (some authentic and some not) everywhere. It's a hive of activity filled with people bartering and bustling around everywhere in search for a bargain, and a lot of fun (so long as you don't get ripped off.)

Later I met up with some Korean friends (said some more goodbyes) for some drinks. It was a surprisingly good night until our taxi driver tried to scam us by taking us the wrong way home. (One of the serious disadvantages of being a foreigner.) Thankfully, my friends flat comes complete with security guards who sorted everything out for us and managed to stem the tide of angry remarks in various different languages that were flying back and forth, most of which I couldn't understand. (I think that may have been a good thing.)

Friday22ndJune07

Today I was supposed to go to the jade market with a friend but after finding out that it's only open on the weekend (finding information about things that are going on in Taiwan online isn't easy) so instead spent the day checking I'd got everything sorted for going back to Scotland next week.

I had a list of things I wanted to do before I left, primarily interviewing betel nut girls and taking some film footage of pedestrian crossings, but both have run into problems.

I think there was a mix up somewhere along the way with the lady who said she'd help me translate for the girls. She's been really busy at so I guess it's not too surprising, but still, it's pretty disappointing. I thought we had everything planned out but then she seemed to forget all about them. Unfortunately a little late in the day for me to find any other mean of getting what I wanted, or even a compromised version of what I wanted.

The filming has hit the snag of a seemingly messed up system in the offices here in general, whereby rhyme and reason seem to be non-existent. Equipment is obviously not their top priority but unfortunately that has had a bad effect on coursework that requires video camera footage for here, as well as for back home.

But I haven't given up hope on that one yet. I still have a few days left, and if the worst comes to the worst I could always take some low quality film with a my normal camera.

a small goodbye

Today my Mongolian flatmate left.

It was pretty sad. Our room was the only room in the whole floor where everyone got on together. And we more than got on together. The three of us have been so close, get on amazingly well with no disagreements for the past few months, so now we're down to two it feels like something is missing.

Today was also the day when I had my last class (perhaps not such a sad event – I love Taiwan, but I do not love this university) commemorated by having to give a presentation on Russian sociology (which, I have to admit to actually enjoying a little, even though the subject matter was not exactly what you could call exciting.)

So that's it for me, other than exams next week, all the academic stuff is done here.

Finally.

Wednesday20thJune07

Okay, this late blogging is starting to become a bit of a bad habit but with barely over a week left you can't blame me for being a little busy.

Today my roommate re-emerged. She has been MIA for the past few days and we were starting to get a little worried. (Especially due to the fact that the last time she disappeared for a weekend she came back married... but that's another story.)

This time she came back with the worst sunburn I've ever seen in my life. It was fairly horrific. When I asked how she managed it (thinking she'd been with a friend in Taipei for the whole time) she said she woke up one day with some friends on an island off the south of Taiwan and had no idea how they got there. (Taipei is in the north of the Taiwan and it's not massively easy to get around unless you speak Chinese.)

I've said it before and I'll say it again – the weight limit for planes to get here is stupid. Thankfully my parents took out all the stuff I couldn't manage on the way here (books etc.) but then they all have to go back again. So today I dragged my other roommate to the city to help with Chinese at the post-office and to share the weight of the box that had been christened 'Gigantor.' (I guess it wasn't that heavy, but I'm not that strong.)

The woman at the post-office seemed quite amused at my request to send him to the UK (and wasn't sure where it was) but was nonetheless helpful.

Later I got a call from a friend who had managed to acquire a moped from the lady he buys his breakfast from, asking if I wanted to go for a short trip. We headed up a mountain (there are lots around here) with a great view of Taoyuan. Then to a random temple that turned out to be closed for the night.

I'm not the worlds biggest fan of mopeds, and given he'd only been riding it for a few weeks he didn't exactly fill me with confidence.

But when you're face with the choice to go or not to go, it's generally better to go, right?..

Tuesday19thJune07

Today was the Dragon-boat Festival.

I was faced with two choices: to go stand in a packed place and hope to maybe catch the odd glimpse of the boat races, or, to go as a 'plus one' with a friend to a Taiwanese family's house she had been invited to in Taipei.

I chose the second. And I was so glad I did.

We joined them for lunch complete with the traditional Dragon-boat Festival food – sticky rice with either meat or red bean, wrapped in some kid of leaf in a triangle. I'm not overly fond of the rice, but the rest of the food was amazing! Everything from shrimp and sea cucumber casarole, to bamboo salid. There was loads of food, and all homemade traditional Chinese style.

I sat across the table from the Grandma who spent the whole time looking up at me and smilling or giggling. She was fascinated and seemingly impressed by my apparently 'perfect' hold and use of chopsticks (I guess it has something to do with being taught how to use them when I was little) which is possibly one of the best compliments I've had since I've been here. Then when I would go to try something new, taking only a little to taste first, she would lean across the table (completely ignoring my attempts to stop her) and fill up the rest of my bowl with whatever it was that I had just taken. I became very cautious of what I tried, unless I was willing to commit, it was avoided, or at least until she wasn't looking.

They also taught us one of the coolest things ever. Once a year, on this day, between 11am and 1pm it is possible (with a steady hand and a bit of luck) to balance an egg vertically on its fat end. Our hostess managed to do it, and it just sat there until around one o'clock when it fell over. I'd never have believed it if I hadn't seen it.

They welcomed us in like part of the family, teaching us how to play Chinese chess and then taking us out on a tour after lunch. It has to be one of the best afternoons I've had here, and a great opportunity to see some real Chinese culture.

Monday18thJune07

Today was a holiday so I had no classes (thankfully.)

In the evening a few friends an I went to Taipei to a lounge bar to chill out together.

Public transportation always seems to bring out the most fascinating enigmas. The most haunting of all, perhaps, are the unbelievable feats of nasal archeology. I'm not sure if nose cartilage is more flexible here, but I had no idea that fingers could disappear that far. You can't help but stare in awe, wondering if they're digging for green matter or grey.

The night itself was really good. I met loads of new people (unfortunately a little late) and the music was really decent.

This last weekend has started to set my biological clock back to British time a bit prematurely, and since I had an appointment tomorrow, we decided to call it a night around two thirty and head back to Taoyuan.

Sunday17thJune07

Last night we ended up staying at the spa all night (they have everything there – restaurant, beds, movie screen, karaoke bar, tv rooms, and all the rest of the health and relaxation related stuff) since you pay around four pounds for everything for up to twelve hours we wanted to take full advantage.

After I got back I slept till late afternoon and headed into Taipei with my roommate. On the way back I had to take a taxi from Taoyuan city to the dorms. Usually when I get into a taxi I tell them where I want to go in Mandarin, then when they start the usual banter I quickly cut them off telling them that my Chinese is not good, they say okay and that's it for the rest of the journey.

Today, however, was a little different. As soon as I got in he started chatting away, despite my protests of being bad at Chinese. I had no option but to try and figure out what he was saying (something I do a lot less than I should.) Turned out I picked up enough to roughly understand most of what he was saying, and answer a few questions (very badly) along the way. (Although part of me wished I didn't know what he saying.) To my embarrassment I realised he was telling me how beautiful I was, potentially one of the last things you want to hear from your taxi driver. He then went on to ask if I was from America, (adding that Taiwan was a lot better than Scotland so I should stay here,) did i have friends here, why I was going to the university so late. It was hard work given that I could only pick up the odd word here or there, but he was persistent.

I thought I'd done not too badly until we got near our destination and he asked a question that I could not understand at all. It was multiple choice, he said the answer was either one, two, three or four. I tried to show I didn't understand but he kept asking; 'one, two, three or four?' What was the worst that could happen? I had a 25% chance of getting it right so picked the first one that came to me; one.

Evidently this was not the right answer.

He broke into uproarious laughter.

I still have no clue what he was asking, but I'm not too sure I want to. What you don't know can't hurt you, right?

Saturday16thJune07

After getting home at around seven this morning, I think it had to have been something close to a miracle that got everyone to their graduation ceremony on time. Unfortunately, that meant me too. My roommate's parents couldn't make it so she asked me to go take some photos of her.

It had to be the weirdest ceremony ever. The hall was packed, incredibly hot, and incredibly noisy. It started with the departments' flags being carried in by girls in white and red military uniforms, followed by the Chinese national anthem. Then the President of Ming Chuan got up to speak.

But all through this none of the rest of the noise stopped. Everyone, including the graduates, where talking amongst themselves, taking photos of each other, cheering when different people entered, so you couldn't hear a word that was said. I found it very strange and part of me was frustrated at the lack of respect for people speaking, but that's just part of the culture here. (and I have to admit, it made things go a lot faster) Even in classes, when the teacher speaks, there are, more often than not, about four other conversations going on at the same time.

It takes getting used to.

Afterwards there was a massively impressive fireworks display and a buzz in the air with hundreds of people scuttling around congratulating each other, hugging, taking photos. There were balloons, flowers and bears everywhere (mostly bought from the mini market that had been set up just outside campus.)

It seemed the adrenaline had woken everyone up again, so I was dragged out with a group of friends for dinner. It was so late that the only place that was open (other than McDonalds) was the 24hour spa, so we ended up there.

The concept of sleeping seems to have gotten lost somewhere along the way.

Friday15thJune07

Today was prom.

The seniors all graduate tomorrow so the prom is tonight.

It was potentially one of the earliest proms in history – starting at 6:30 and ending at 9:30 – and there were more rules to abide by than there were people there (you had to sign a sheet to say you'd stick to them) but man they went all out, on production especially. They had a really decent MC, DJ and band (I had met the singer before, due to some freak coincidence which was kinda cool); professional salsa dancers and some serious decoration – including turret things that shot out fire every-so-often.

It was a pretty good night, lots of people, lots of dancing, but it didn't end there.

A whole heap of us piled onto buses and taxi's to Taipei where we pretty much took over a night club there.

It was a really great night full of much hilarity (especially since they don't close till 5am here.)

Thursday14thJune07

The sweetest thing ever happened today.

A few weeks ago I was picking up some dinner when this girl stopped me (and very nervously) asked if she could interview me for a class project. Of course I said yes. Turned out she'd been plucking up the courage for a few weeks but didn't think I'd say yes. She was so sweet and ended up asking for my msn address so she could keep in contact.

So today I was leaving my class and she was waiting outside for me. She explained that next week is a special holiday and so she wanted to give me something to remind me of it. She gave me this scented Chinese style material heart along with one of the nicest letters I've ever had. I was totally taken aback. I wasn't sure what to do, but obviously accepted it gratefully thanking her.

It made my day, despite the unexpectedness.

Wednesday13thJune07

It's all well and good going away for a while, but you inevitably have to deal with all the catching up with work on your return.

Mandarin class today, however, consisted of watching a silly movie followed by pizza. Now that's what I call catching up with work. Our teacher is lovely. She always gives me extra help (possible due to the 'what the heck are you talking about?' look I sport for the majority of the class) and has to be one of the happiest people I've ever. She's not much older than most of us, so we all get on really well.

Alas, the rest of the day did not comprise of pizza. It was spent catching up on work and preparing a presentation for the next day.

Tuesday12thJune07

Today was the day I was left KL.

I had a really great time there but I must admit to looking forward to going back to Taiwan.

On the way to the airport we stopped in past a kindof relative's restaurant again for lunch and say goodbye. Then I left.

The flight back was strange. It felt like I was going home, which I was in a sense since this has been my home for the last few months, but it's not going to be forever.

I took potentially the most terrifying taxi ride of my life back to campus (it took closer to thirty minutes than the usual hour) and was welcomed by my roommate who shoved me back out the door and onto the bus to go to a spa. I'd never been before so had no idea what to expect and I'm not going to go into too much detail but it's basically a series of pools and rooms of vastly varaing temperatures that I'm sure must have originally been designed as cruel and unusual torture chambers. Against all odds and after a good few hours there we definitely left completely relaxed and refreshed. I figure it's probably best not to question it too much.

I'm back in Taiwan. It doesn't make sense, and it's made me feel at home for this short period.

day six, trip two

Today I realised I've had far too much time to think here.

After an email from my parents and a phonecall from my grandparents, both pointing out the fact that I'm leaving soon, I spent the next few (depressing) hours trying to think of schemes that would result in me staying in Taiwan.

I don't want to leave.

But it's okay. I will most definitely be coming back here. And I most definitely want to explore more of asia. It's pretty amazing.

This evening we all went out to a night market for dinner, for what turned out to be yet another culinary adventure. I think I've eaten more fish and seafood in the last week than I have in my life. I don't like seafood, and am not particularly fond of fish. But the 'try everything once that wont kill you' part of me kicked in and I couldn't say no to the food that was offered. I had curried manta ray fin that had been barbequed in a banana leaf, stir fried oysters and egg, and oysters with garlic, ginger and chillies. And it was all washed down with freshly juiced sugar cane, which, is surprisingly unsweet.

It paid off, it wasn't at all bad.

day five, trip two

Today I went for lunch with my uncle and friend to this hotel that served really great, Hong Kong style dim sum.

Chinese people when you eat with them (especially family) always put things on your plat for you, whether you want them to or not. The worst of it is that it would be pretty rude not to eat it. So today, along with the other not so weird foods, I ate chicken feet and fish egg topped seafood dumplings. The best part of all - I kept it in.

My friend took me shopping, then later there was a massive thunder and lightning storm (hence the lateness of this entry) so we stayed inside all evening.

day four, trip two

Today has been a surreal day.

There are geckos everywhere in the house, but until now the only ones I’ve seen are the partially fossilized remains of unfortunate beasts that got trapped in the door. Perhaps it’s the frogs’ short break from their choiring that provoked it, but I’ve seen two scuttling across the walls and floors in the last five minutes.

I’m not their biggest fan so thankfully haven’t seen any in my room.

This morning I sat outside reading. Nothing too out of the ordinary. But this afternoon I was picked up by a friend. No, actually, I was picked up by her driver. Who has a driver?

I felt pretty uncomfortable with the idea that this guy was chauffeuring us round the city all afternoon, but I guess that’s his job. It certainly made it easier to get to places.

Someone recently commented on how they felt so much better about my safety knowing I’m with my uncle in Malaysia. If you are that person, you might want to stop reading now.

Malaysia, especially KL, is nowhere near as safe as Taiwan. You can’t walk down the street with any loose bags as there are people snatch they while on motorbikes, dragging you along with them if you don’t let go. (This has happened twice to my friend, once she couldn’t let go, so she was ultra cautious.) Taiwan is maybe not the safest place in the world but stuff like that just doesn’t really happen. You can walk in Taipei with friends in the late early hours of the morning, and feel perfectly safe.

Don’t get me wrong, it’s still a great place to visit so long as you’re not careless (and stay away from the gangster that lives in the inordinately large house down the street,) and I’ll definitely be coming back for a proper look around in the future.

(Then again, there is the constant impending threat of gecko attack here…)

the gentlemen

Stray dogs lye lazy on the grass verge. Palm trees stand tall and fat along the roads. Cars bustle along with attitude. The radio strains out the faintest squeaks, almost indistinguishable next to the loud English accent from the older Scotsman in the seat next to me. Cars behind get impatient as he slows (apparently unaware) to point out ‘the university,’ ‘the tree,’ ‘the gas station’… illustrations to a larger story.

First stop: the geology department to drop off some papers.

Second stop: the country club. An old gentleman exits a car and greets me ‘how do you do?’ the words drip off his tongue in thick upper-class English. It transpires that his life here consisted of running various plantations, and age has not lessened his air of authority.

We enter, and, suitably attired – no jeans, sneakers or flip-flops allowed – continue up the impressive aged mahogany staircase to the dancing room, set up for lunch. After introducing me to some of ‘the boys’ we took our seats overlooking the bowling and cricket greens with a further view of an impressive old Indian style building.

After we ate we were joined by a couple of the men for some coffee. One; a south Indian gentleman, the other; an Australian, and both equally fascinating. The average age at the table must have been around 70, but that made no difference to the flow of conversation. The Indian left early and a friend joined us, evening out the sexes and ages a little more.

The Australian gentleman solicited most of my conversation, and I was more than happy to oblige. He was a highly intelligent, well traveled, perfectly mannered man. Most flagrant of all was the immense amount of patience and humility that this man possessed. He was the sort of person that one rarely comes across and I had all the time in the world for him. I only wish I could have spent more time with him, as I left feeling encouraged and at ease.

Admittedly, I had a few preconceived ideas about the sort of people we might meet at the club, but given that my uncle is not of that sort I knew they must not all be that way. Amazingly, most of them weren’t. (Or at least not the ones I met.) They were just fascinating old men full of treasures they have accumulated over a lifetime, but are willing share with anyone who is prepared to take the time to listen.

day three, trip two

This morning was spent listening to tales of everything from geological expeditions in Asia, to views on Chinese politics, all the time with BBC radio 3 blaring out classical music in the background. When I wasn't doing that, I was lying in the sun while my uncle revised one of his old books.

I was quite happy to do nothing all day but he insisted that I hadn't really been to KL unless I had been to the Batu Caves. So off we went.

It was all well and good for him as he he used his bad hip as an excuse to wait at a coffee shop at the bottom of the mountain, sending me off to climb the hundreds of steps up and into the caves.
So much for doing nothing all day.

It wasn't that bad but the steps were pretty steep and monkeys kept surprising me by running across my path.

The caves are made of lime stone and full of impressive stalactites. You walk through the first cave and up more steps to another cave where the roof has caved in a little, shedding light on the wonders within. The mountain is sacred for Hindus, and in the second cave is a small temple holding a priest who blesses people. It was quite fascinating to watch people leaving with third eye spots, or babies with yellow paste on their heads.

Later we headed out to a local shopping centre for dinner.

I think it's quite funny, cos I'm happy to do nothing, (fry in the sun reading old Rudyard Kipling stories I found hidden in a dusty bookcase, and listening to my uncles tales) but keep getting taken to places regardless. It's so nice. I'm really grateful to have such a welcoming family.

day two, trip two

After a fantastically quiet sleep I got up with nothing paticular to do. My uncle and I went to a nearby Indian place for 'roti chani' (curry sauce and fluffy unleven bread) and 'teh tarik' (special tea poured between two metal cups from a great height to fill it with air) for breakfast. I'm not normally into flavoursome food in the morning but I certainly wasn't complaining.

Everything here is done very slowly. Well, it is with my uncle. He has a walking stick and doesn't walk quickly i nthe first place, but it takes around twice the length of time to get somewhere as it should cos if he sees something interesting he stops and tells you a story or description about it. (This is all well and good but when it happens in the middle of crossing a road I must confess to getting a little anxious.) I love it. It's chilling out to the max. You couldn't live in a more relaxed way here if you tried.

He introduced me to the train and busses on a trip to KL. We went to a shopping centre for a wee minute but spent the longest length of time sitting people watching and talking (purely to give my uncle a rest of course.) People here are a lot less cautious of strangers than in Taiwan so we ended up talking to a few randoms too (a few of which just wanted to know where i got my perm and touch my hair cos it looked so real...)

We came back and sat outside reading, for what seemed like a few seconds, till my cousin got back from work. Him an his girlfriend took me out to a huge night market to find material. I didn't get material, but I did get some of the best food I've eaten in months. Man the food's good here (and it had shrimps in it again.) More vegetables, less oil and more spices.

It's far more developed here compared to where I live in Taiwan, but there's something I miss about the place. There's something really appealing about the lack of foreigners in Taiwan. It helps you to forget that you are one.

That said, I'm really enjoying spending time here (incase you hadn't guessed.)

arrived

Today I got to Malaysia in one piece.
It was a really good flight with heaps of leg room. I ended up next to a drunk Japanese guy who reeked of alcohol and seemed to want to sleep off the effects so it was a great excuse to catch up on some sleep.

There was a heavy thunder and lightning storm when I left Taipei so was delayed a little but I got there, particularly cheerful at the thought of skipping the storms this week.

We stopped in past a kindof relative's shop on the way into KL. They greeted us with curry and bread so after that they could do no wrong. Ironically, this was the first time I had properly spoken Mandarin to anyone in ages. Whenever I try in Taiwan they don't understand a word I say, but as soon as they found out I learn it (despite my protests that I can only speak very little very badly) they insisted on helping me. It was pretty fun actually and left me feeling a lot more confident that there may be hope yet for me.

From first impressions Kuala Lumpur seems really nice. It's clean and organised. My uncle's house is in Petaling Jaya which is town on the edge of KL. I got out the car and was attacked by a rug on legs that thinks he's a clown - this funny little dog called Yati. I was later greeted by Sushi, his more timid friend. It's lovely here. Nothing fancy but really relaxing and warm, in the homey sense, and most appealingly, it's quiet. Other than bug and animal noises it's quiet.

His son also lives here with his girlfriend so the four of us headed out to a fish restaurant for dinner. I was in a bit of a daze and didn't realise that fish actually meant fish until after I realised I had agreed to shrimp. It was way past too late to change my mind (although I'd like to know what I thought the fish tanks full of fish, frogs and fridges of lobsters were for) so I kept quiet, I always wanted to like shrimp so figured I could maybe acquire the taste.

It tasted great. Goes to show you can't write off every shrimp just because 90% of them taste like cack.

smells

Today was spent tying up loose ends and preparing stuff for my little excursion to Kuala Lumpur tomorrow. (Due to the worrying fact that my parents thought I had already been there for a week, I feel the need to clarify that it is tomorrow that I leave.)

I'm really looking forward to it but I'm really going to miss some of my friends here. I'm going to chill out with my great uncle for the week coming back next Tuesday. He made sure to get in his (very specific and detailed) order for duty-free whiskey and pipe tobacco. (He cracks me up.) I love the after smell of pipe tobacco, so it'll be nice to be around it too. Nobody else I know smokes a pipe so I only get to smell it once a year when he comes to Scotland. (And even then I tend not to make a big point of it due to the inevitable mocking that ensues.)

Smell are funny thing. They have such a strong affect on memories. You never remember smells, but sometimes a stray scent catches you off guard and you are immediately reminded of a person, place, time or feeling. For me it's probably the strongest trigger of memories, but even once the memory has surfaced, if the smell has passed, I couldn't tell you what it was. I just know that it was.

Although, some smells are just intrinsically linked with certain people or places and you'd know it a mile off. Like pipe tobacco and my uncle, or body odour and an old French teacher, or curry and my grandparents house. I used to have an eccentric art teacher in primary school who you could smell coming a mile off. I have no idea what it was, and it wasn't bad, but it just smelled like him. A strange unplaceable smell, like incense or magical aftershave or something. One day I was walking down the street and I smelt it again. It wasn't until i walked passed two more side streets and turned a corner that i saw him coming towards me half the length of the street away from me. Bizarre.

I should be able to keep up the blog while I'm gone, although the photos will most likely need to be added later.

i love sundays

As I seems to have been the theme for the past few weeks, Taiwan always has a way of surprising me on a Sunday.

I had set my alarm for nine so that I could go to church. (Given that I didn't get to bed till after four, and I was going to church with one of the girls I was out with last night, I figured it would be a miracle if we made it.) But I woke up. At eight.

There was an inexplicable racket coming from outside. I was pretty certain I was awake, but just to be sure I climbed out of bed for a closer inspection. I did not expect the scene that awaited me.

The running track, field and stadium seats were covered with hundreds and hundreds of brightly colour, unnaturally-enthusiastic-for-a-Sunday-morning people, and the roads were covered with cars and buses dropping off more people. And they were loud.

I had no idea why, but there seemed to be well organise processions with music accompaniments parading around. And they seemed very fond of drums. I decided if I went back to sleep they might go away, but they didn't, and that was a lot harder than I had hoped.

So I eventually gave up and went to the store to get some breakfast. I wandered along in a half asleep state doing a superb job of ignoring the masses of kids that looked like they'd never seen a white person before, and their parents. Got to the shop. And all the good bread was gone!

I can handle the drumming, I can handle the staring, but don't mess with my breakfast!

Thankfully it didn't do any irreparable damage and I made it through the rest of the day. (but it was touch and go for a second there.)

I did miss church, however, due to the uncanny sleeping abilities of my friend I was going with. How she managed to sleep through that is a mystery to me.

The 'field people who ate my breakfast' eventually dissipated in the late afternoon, potentially due to a sudden lightning storm which appeared out of nowhere. Although I blame them for that too cos they started to have a sports-day type thing and that invariably has a drastically negative affect on the weather (always including rain.)

But my apologies for the lack of bloging lately (to those of you who complained,) I'll try my best to not let it back up so much in the future.

Saturday2ndJune07

Today I spent my morning (you guessed it) studying.

Thankfully the late evening took a slightly different turn.

I was invited to a BBQ so popped along for a few minutes before heading with some friends to Taipei.

Our mission: to check out a potential band for the up and coming prom. We arrived at the Irish pub they were playing at and it seemed fairly normal from the outside. (I felt a little like I was part of a dodgy joke - 'An African, and Asian, and a Scottish girl walk into a bar...' but despite the fact that I would most likely be the character that bears the brunt of the punchline, it was kinda fun.) A slightly unexpected clientèle awaited us when we entered. It look like the entire white population of Taiwan had descended on this one pub. They almost outnumbered the Asians. It was bizarre.

The creepy thing was that most of them were pervy old men, so we stood out like a sore thumb. I had a good time with my friends and the band was really good but man I felt uncomfortable at times.

It's weird how you can feel most conscious when you're around people that are most like you.

(Apart from the pervy old man part.)

Friday1stJune07

Today I did nothing but study.

Nothing at all.

So I chilled out for a few minutes (as is becoming my routine) on the roof in the wee hours of the morning.

I'm starting to really love that roof.

Thursday31stMay07

My roommates are on a very different sleeping schedule to me. I get up early, go to classes, study, get breakfast etc. But the don't have morning classes, so get up after I've had lunch and are still on the prowl till very late the next morning. Many people on my floor have a similar schedule, but it makes sleeping pretty interesting. For me at night, and them in the morning.

So in the interest of not wanting to wake anyone, I generally leave the room if I have to do work. Today, I went up to the roof, as per usual.

The extreme heat seems to have brought out the extreme sun-worshippers, making it a hotbed of activity through the day, mostly consisting of topless sunbathers. The sun is nowhere near as strong here as the heat would make you think, so you have to stay out for some time before it has an effect on you. I don't know how they can do it. The heat and humidity induces 'greasy puddle' syndrome in most people after about 15mins in direct sunlight, but they're there for hours. The mind boggles.

The afternoon brought with it the start of our sociology presentations. It was fairly boring sitting through around five or six of them, but one of them particularly caught my attention. It made my day.

One group had chosen Scotland as their country of choice. They did a pretty good job, but had gotten a little confused at parts which totally brightened my day.

Did you know that Scotland is the topmost island in a collective of four islands that makes up the UK?

And that bagpipe music is the favoured recreational music type for Scottish people?

And haggis is the most popular meal in Scotland?

I showed great restraint in not falling off my seat with laughter. It totally cracked me up. We sure do come across as a slightly crazy breed of people sometimes.

I loved it.

(And for the record, I don't love haggis or bagpipe music.)

Wednesday 30th May 07

Today I spent all day in classes and then all evening studying. So by the time night (or early morning) came, I was more than thankful for the roof of the building.

It's really nice up there at night. You get a great view of Gwei-Shan and it's relatively quiet.

But there's one problem – the wildlife.

I'd snuck up there to eat lunch earlier and as I passed through the fire door from our floor, something caught my eye. I turned around and totally jumped out my skin. There was a pretty sizeable, semi-transparent gecko on the back of the door. In Taiwan, they call them wall tigers, and this one certainly lived up to it's name. They're speedy wee things, so when it started to move, so did I. As quickly as I could up the stairs to the roof.

So when I headed up there later, a lot of careful stealth-like checking of my surroundings was in order. Tentatively went through the first door, checked walls, roofs, crevices, nothing. Crept up the stairs (paying careful attention that nothing was waiting to fall onto my head – imagining lizards getting tangled up in my curls and biting off my ear and finger tips as I tried to free it.) All clear. Went through the last fire door leading onto the roof and there it was on the step.

The gecko had lost it's tail.

I felt a little sorry for it (for a split second) but decided it was safer that way, figuring they couldn't run as fast without the balance from their tails.

They're cute behind glass, or in books, or in other countries, but not in dorms.

Not even a little.

Tuesday29thMay07

Buying airline tickets at the last minute is not as easy as it sounds when you're in another country. My most successful attempt wanted to send my tickets to America – very helpful when you're in Taiwan.

The people in the office were not exactly helpful either, but thankfully my friends are.

While talking to a friend about it they sent me a link to an airline, that came up in none of my searches, did e-tickets, and cheap fares direct to Kuala Lumpur (less than half the price of the rest) saving me from having to go to Singapore first.

I found it slightly ironic that the friend was American.

I'm becoming pretty thankful of my friends here, you can't take them for granted.